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I've quite fancied climbing Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill for a few years. I remember reading that they are "The only Peaks in the Peak District", and recently opened up with permissive paths under the CROW legislation.
I have a number of routes in various guides, which I totally neglected to read.  I printed out a couple of guides off the Internet, and stuffed them into my pocket, but didn't read them.
The original plan for this walk, the Friday before Jubilee weekend, was to walk the High Peak Trail down from Buxton to Cromford. That is another route I have fancied for a while, but I pulled my calf running the Great Manchester Run a week or two ago, and didn't think a 17Mile trek was a good idea.
Anyway, I drove over to Earl Sterndale and parked by the church, opposite the Quiet Woman pub.
The sign says "Soft Words Turneth Away Wrath", above a headless woman. Have you seen "An American Werewolf In London?"...

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The route I had half read from the excellent Walking Britain site suggested walking through the recycling centre to the side of the Quiet Woman, to pick up the path. This path passes through a couple of gates until it runs alongside an electric fence (at the time of my visit - looked pretty temporary) until reaching the brow of the hill.  The vista revealed is the picture on the left. It's like something from Tolkien. I kept expecting Hobbits to pop up. 
The path dropped down through fields, to a road. I crossed the road and made a b-line for the bottom of the first hill.
I'd got excited. I'd ignored the guide. The paths aren't on the OS map, anyway. So I just climbed the first hill I saw.

The excellent Walk Britain link is at http://www.walkingbritain.co.uk/walks/walks/walk_b/1861/

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The farmer had been spreading muck on the fields, which was nice.  I arrived at the bottom of the hill, and was presented with a steep grassy slope with occasional foot steps where the turf had worn away, presenting a sort of flight of steps up the hill.
It was pretty steep and very hard going, but following the edge of the ridge soon brought me to the summit.
The hills look alpine, but are actually quite small. It's only 350ft of ascent to the top of the first hill.  The guide said I should be on Chrome Hill. I was sat on the top of Parkhouse Hill. I was doing the walk in the wrong direction.

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I haven't managed to capture it in the photographs, but this ridge is called The Dragon's Back for a reason.  It's the edge of a prehistoric coral reef, and the limestone has worn to a fabulous undulating ridge. This photo shows one of the later pinnacles. You could climb them all, but a few at the Chrome Hill end of Parkhouse looked a bit exposed, over a long steep drop. The path around the side was fine.

Parkhouse dispatched with, it was time to descend to cross the road to Chrome Hill.  This bit was a bit hairy. very steep descent down steep grass, loose mud and limestone scree, and some polished rock steps which sloped away. I did some of it sliding sat down. I decided that the hill was definitely better climbed in the opposite direction.

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Chrome Hill was much easier going. Again, there was an undulating ridge, but it began grassy and gentle. This picture is looking back at the way I had been. Up until this point I had been pretty lucky with the weather, overcast and cool. But now the cloud was coming down, and it was becoming difficult to see the hill behind me.
I pressed on, the easier slope and safer footing allowed me to make better progress.
Why do sheep insist upon sitting in the middle of the path?

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The weather closed in. Things were slightly damp, but the low cloud was my biggest problem. I was aware I had been basically ignoring the route guide, and winging it on the grounds that I was just aiming for the ruddy great lump of rock in front of me. Looking at the OS map, there were no paths marked. These are Permissive Paths, not Public Footpaths, and I think the OS maps are pretty out of date.  No signal to download a map onto my phone GPS.  Marvellous.
Looking at the OS map I could see a farm at the far end of the hill, with a road. The plan was to try and find that, then head down.

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I followed the ridge by keeping to the high ground. Eventually I reached the end of the ridge and dropped down.  As I left the clouds, I could see a stile. With a signpost for Permissive Path. It didn't say where the path was going, but it pointed right, and that was the vague direction I was heading, so I went for it.
The path passed to the right of Tor Rock, and eventually I saw a sign for Stoop Farm.
Lucky guesswork and some vague waving of the compass saw me heading down the road into Dowel Dale. I think the Post van was as surprised to see me as I was to see him.

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I was able to make some decent time up heading down into Dowel Dale. I kept an eye out for the cave, but missed it.
Eventually I passed Dowel Hall (farm) on the left, and found myself back at the gap between the two hills.

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In theory, I should walk past the hills, and head back up to Earl Sterndale.  But... Well... It's such a nice shapely hill, and I was pretty sure I had climbed it in the wrong direction.... So I climbed Parkhouse again in the reverse direction. Definitely better from the Chrome Hill side heading back to Earl Sterndale.
There was still cow poo all over the field at the other side.

I popped into the Quiet Woman for a can of Coke and some crisps, then drove home.
I can't help but think I'll be back. I just wish the hills were a bit bigger. Another thousand foot or two would do it.

Si
2/6/2012 03:45:44 am

Oh, you can bypass the Quiet Woman altogether and pick up a stile in the wall on the main road about 100yrds to the NW of the pub.

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Jobbo
2/6/2012 04:19:16 am

Looks a pleasant walk - and a bit of a bonus that you can get back to the car easily.

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Si
3/6/2012 04:08:54 pm

It's uphill all the way back to the car, Jobbo. But it was only a short walk, so not much of an issue. I saw an 11mile variation...

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17/7/2012 06:21:32 pm

Great route you took. The weather really did close in by the looks of your pictures from Chrome :-)

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